Dzongs and temples

The dzong is Bhutan's great architectural idea: a fortress-monastery built without nails or drawings, housing both the district administration and the monastic body. Punakha Dzong at the meeting of two rivers, Trongsa above its gorge, Paro Rinpung with its cantilevered bridge: each one was built to command a valley and still does.

Temples are older and quieter. Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro and Jambay Lhakhang in Bumthang are said to date from the seventh century, pinned down by a Tibetan king to subdue a demoness lying across the Himalaya. Inside, your guide will explain the murals, the protector deities and the order in which to walk.

Long sleeves and long trousers or skirts are required, hats come off at the gate and photography is not permitted inside temples and shrine rooms. Your guide carries the permits and knows the courtyards where the light falls well in the afternoon.